The Stubai High Trail (“Stubaier Höhenweg” in German) is one of the most beautiful treks in the Austrian Alps. Linking together eight characterful mountain huts, this horseshoe-shaped route around the Stubai Valley oscillates between breathtaking passes and enchanting valleys, while affording hikers non-stop views of serrated peaks, shimmering lakes, and magnificent glaciers.
I walked the Stubai High Trail in mid-October 2019, as part of an extended hiking trip in the Alps. It was one of four multi-day high trails I did in Austria during the journey; the others being the Berliner Höhenweg, Schladming Tauern Höhenweg, and the Wormser Höhenweg.
Stage 6 – Approaching Grawagrubennieder Pass (2881 m), the highest point on the Stubai Hohenweg
(Note: The information below is largely directed towards independent hikers, rather than folks going as part of organised trekking groups).
At a Glance
Distance: 80 km (50 mi)
Average Duration: 7 to 9 days (see How Long will it Take? for details)
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Start: Neustift
Finish: Neder
High Point: Grawagrubennieder – 2881 m (9,452 ft)
Lowest Elevation: Neustift – 994 m (3,261 ft)
Total Elevation Gain & Loss: 11,306 m (37,093 ft)
Which direction?: I don’t think it matters. I hiked in a counter-clockwise direction, and the Cicerone guide books referenced below describe the trail in a clockwise direction.
What’s in a Name?: As of 2020, most folks – including the Stubai area’s official website – refer to the featured hike as the Stubai High Trail or Stubaier Höhenweg. However, it is also known as the Stubai Rucksack Route or Stubaier Runde Tour in German. For users of the Cicerone Guide books mentioned below, note that in “Walking in Austria” it is referred to as the Hohenweg and listed as 120 km long, whereas in “Trekking in the Stubai Alps” it is called the Rucksack Route and estimated to be about 80 km in length. For the purposes of this article, I’m going to go with “High Trail” or “Hohenweg” and the shorter of the quoted distances, which aligns with GPX data for the route.
Overview map of the Stubaier Hohenweg (Walking in Austria, Cicerone Press).
Getting There & Away:
- The termini of Neder and Neustift are serviced by a regular bus service (multiple times daily / #590) from the nearby city of Innsbruck. The journey takes around half an hour, and the bus stop is located directly outside the entrance to the Innsbruck train station. Click here for bus timetables.
Season:
- Hiking season in the Austrian Alps is generally between late June to late September. In an average weather year, September is ideal. The school holiday crowds are gone, the summer thunderstorms (generally short) have subsided, temperatures are cooler, and the mountain huts are less crowded.
- Off-season: Depending on the snow levels and experience of the aspirant, the Stubai High Trail can also be done in the late spring or early to mid-fall. When hiking at these times, you may require an ice axe and traction devices. Also, note that the full-service huts closed at these times, so you will need to carry all of your own food and a perhaps a tent/tarp (Note: Most of the huts have small winter rooms (“winterraums“) that remain open during the off-season. See Accommodation below for details).
- Personally speaking, for someone like myself who has always had an aversion to crowds (especially out in nature), hiking the trail off-season was ideal. I didn’t meet a single other person doing the entire route, and the only day-trippers I saw during my three days on trail were around the easily accessible Franz Senn Hut and Dresdener Hut.
Franz Senn Hut
Stage 6 – Approaching Grawagrubennieder Pass on a chilly autumnal morning.
Planning Information
- Guidebook: Cicerone Press publish two books that cover the Hohenweg. Walking in Austria gives a bare-bones account of the trail, while Trekking in the Stubai Alps has a much more detailed summary of the famed hut-to-hut route, including trekking notes, basic maps for each section, side trips/alternates suggestions, distance and time estimates, and logistical information on getting to and from the trail. Both books are available in Kindle version or paperback.
- Maps: You can pick up maps for the Stubai High Trail at the tourist office in Neustift. You have a choice of either a free basic map of the route or topographic maps by the Austrian Alpine Club (Sheet 31/1 Stubai Alpen: Hoch Stubai 1:25,000 and Sheet 31/2 Stubai Alpen: Sellrain 1:25,000). Normally, I would opt for the latter option, however, for this well-marked/easily accessible route, I think that the basic map, combined with a Kindle version of the Cicerone Guide, and GPX data, should suffice for most hikers in all but winter conditions.
- Permits: No permits are required to hike the Stubai High Trail.
Mountain tarn at sunset on stage 4 just below Niederl Col (2,627 m).
- Language: German. Almost everyone you meet that’s under 60 years old will speak English, however, a few simple words and phrases of the native tongue will always be appreciated by locals.
- Cell/Mobile Phone Coverage: I tend to keep my phone in flight mode while out in the woods, but from what I can gather, during hiking season some of the huts on the Hohenweg have Wifi/cell reception, along with the opportunity to charge your phone and/or battery pack whether you are overnighting, or just stopping in for breakfast or lunch.
- Other Online Resources: The Stubai.at website is an excellent source of information not only for the Stubai High Trail but for anything else you may be interested in doing while in the Stubai region.
Stage 7 – Heading up to the Schrimmenneider Col (2,706 m) between Franz Senn and Neue Regensburger Huts.
Resupply & Water:
- Food: There are no villages along the Hohenweg, but meals are never hard to come by during the hiking season as all of the huts are full service. It is also possible to purchase snacks and sandwiches to go.
-
- Breakfast – Usually served from around 6 to 8 am. Continental-style, consisting of bread/butter/jam and coffee or tea.
- Lunch – Usually served from midday to 2 pm, though it can vary from hut to hut. Order as much as you like from the menu. Beer and wine are available.
- Dinner – Principal meal of the day and usually served between 6 pm and 7.30 pm. The set-dinner option is well-priced, ample in size, and can once again be washed down with your choice of adult beverages.
- Costs: Most folks that overnight at the huts go for the “half pension” option, which consists of dinner, bed, and breakfast for between €45 and €55. Lunch is always à la carte.
- Off-season: If you are interested in hiking out of season, you will have to carry all your own supplies from start to finish. If you are fortunate – it happened to me on three separate occasions during my time in Austria – friendly locals may have left some beers in the Winter Rooms to help get you through the chilly nights!
- Water: Plentiful throughout the hike. Can either be obtained at the huts or from streams along the way. During my time in the Alps, I generally drank directly from sources and had no intestinal issues. The exception was if I was obtaining water downstream from huts or grazing animals, in which case I treated with Aquamira drops.
Leaving the Neu Regensburger winter room on a chilly mid-October morning (-9°C/15°F).
Route / Conditions:
- Overview: During the summer months the Stubai High Trail is a moderately demanding trek. It includes more than 11,000 m (36,809 ft) of combined altitude gain and loss, and during its course, hikers will negotiate high passes, exposed traverses, boulder fields, and steep scree slopes. The trail is well marked with splashes of red/white paint, and major junctions usually have a signpost or a painted marker with a designated trail number.
- If hiking during the shoulder seasons, do I need traction devices, ice axe, or any other specialised equipment?: During my October hikes in the Alps I didn’t carry an ice axe, but I did use Salewa mountain spikes (similar to Kathoola Microspikes) and was very glad to have them for some of the icy high sections. Also on the footwear front, I regularly wore a combination of merino wool socks and Montbell Gore-tex All Round Socks under my trail running shoes. I’d definitely go with the same system again if I was to return to the Alps in the spring or fall. (Note: I’ll publish a full gear list for the trip in the coming weeks).
Stage 6 – Chamois drinking in the valley views.
- How Long will it take?: In the opening “At a Glance” section I mention that the average time taken for the high trail is 7 to 9 days. That said, the amount of time it takes can vary greatly depending on a number of factors. Fit and experienced hikers carrying a light pack and who have a relatively good run with the weather, can comfortably do the hike in three or four days.
- Highlights: I enjoyed the entire trail, but if I had to pick my favourite sections they would be as follows:
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- Stage 4 – Between Nurnberger and Suzenau Huts via Niederl Col.
- Stage 6 – Between Dresdner Hut and Neue Regensberger Hut via the Grawagrubennieder Pass.
Note: I’ve read that Stage 2 between Bremer and Innsbrucker Huts is also supposed to be gorgeous, but unfortunately, the weather gods didn’t smile on me for that challenging section, and I spent the entire day walking through a combination of freezing rain, strong winds, heavy fog, and snow.
- Lowlights: The only one that comes to mind is the built-up area around Dresdner Hut, which can be accessed by cable car.
Cairn-laden Niederl Col (2,627 m) with Wilder Freiger Ferner glacier in the background (Stage 4)
Wilder Freiger Ferner Glacier as seen from below Niederl Col (Stage 4).
Stage 2 and 3 – After a day spent hiking in less than stellar conditions, the dramatically located Innsbrucker Hut (or at least its cozy winter room) was a sight for sore eyes.
Sleeping
- Mountain Huts: Virtually all hikers on the Stubai High Trail stay in the mountain huts. These regularly-spaced refuges usually boast incredible high altitude locations, along with impressive vistas. Most are open from mid-June to late September, and along with overnight accommodation (dormitory and sometimes private rooms), they also offer breakfast, lunch, and dinner. As referenced above, the best value can usually be found in the half-board offer, which consists of a three-course dinner, a bed, and breakfast for between 45 and 55 Euros (as of 2019). Note that folks that are affiliated with certain other European Alpine or Mountain clubs (e.g. UK, German, French) enjoy reciprocal rights. During the peak season months of July and August, accommodation should ideally be booked in advance; this especially holds true if you are hiking in a group.
Neue Regensberger Hut
Yours truly in the very plush, solar-powered, and apparently brand spanking new, winter room of the Neue Regensberger Hut. Although I carried my Tarptent Aeon Li, I didn’t end up using it and instead enjoyed the cozy confines of the winter rooms, which I was fortunate to have all to myself.
Nürnberger Hut.
- Is Wild Camping Possible in the Austrian Alps?: Officially speaking………….it’s complicated. There is no “everyman’s right/freedom to roam” in Austria, and alpine zone camping regulations can vary significantly between states. The Stubai High Trail is located in the Tyrol region, and according to the Tyrol Camping Act (2001), as per the Austrian Alpine Club website: “Camping outside of campsites is prohibited”. The only exception is alpine bivouacking “for a short period of time required by the occasion.” Before wild campers get too excited, the website also states that “Deliberate bivouacking is equated with staying in a tent! Violations can result in fines of up to 14,500 euros, depending on the federal state.” In reality, I suspect if you were to stay well away from huts and farms, set up just before dark in a stealthy spot, leave at dawn the next day, and diligently practice LNT principles at all times, you would be unlikely to have any issues. Click here for a detailed overview of the camping situation in Austria.
- Winter Rooms (“winterraums”): Although I did carry a shelter on the Stubai High Trail – for emergency purposes only! – I ended up spending all of my nights in the winter rooms. These little sanctuaries are a godsend at the end of a long day in rough conditions. They are generally an annex to the main hut and remain open all-year-round.
Stage 4 – Descending towards Sulzenau Hut.
Stage 1 – “Come on, son, I can’t hold this bloody rock up forever. Is there a case of Stiegl in there or what?“
Gear List – Stubai High Trail
The base weight for my mid-October hike of the Stubai High Trail was 5.1 kg (11.1 lb), and the total weight came in at 6.3 kg (14 lb). The temperatures ranged between mid-teens Celsius (low 60s F) to a low of -9°C (15°F)
| ITEM | WT. (OZ) | SUB (oz) | SUB (kg) | COMMENTS |
| BACKPACK | ||||
| MLD Burn DCF | 16 | UL, frameless, slim profile – I’ve been using different incarnations of the Burn for over a decade / I’ve had the DCF model for the past two years – so far, so good. | ||
| Pack Liner (Trash Compactor Bag) | 2 | Cheap & effective | ||
| 18 | 0.51 | |||
| SHELTER | ||||
| Tarptent Aeon Li | 16.8 | Uber-lite, holds up well in a storm when pitched low (108cm), and very roomy for something which weighs around a pound. | ||
| Stakes – Easton “Nail” models (6) | 1.7 | |||
| 18.5 | 0.52 | |||
| SLEEPING SYSTEM | ||||
| Pad – Thermarest NeoAir XLite (Sm) | 8 | Very comfy / Doubles as makeshift framesheet for pack / Put feet on backpack when sleeping / See 20,000 + mile review. | ||
| Quilt – Katabatic Alsek 22 (Long / 900fp) | 22.2 | Conservatively rated 22°F / More than 900 nights using Katabatic quilts since 2011. | ||
| 30.2 | 0.86 | |||
| KITCHEN | ||||
| LokSak 20×12 (Food Bag) | 1.2 | Food storage bag of choice since the 2000s. I often hear people complain about the seals breaking quickly, but I’ve always found them to be fairly durable (4 to 6 weeks of daily use) if you don’t overfill them. | ||
| Toaks 700ml Titanium Pot | 3.1 | |||
| Toaks Titanium Siphon Alcohol Stove |
0.7 | |||
| Toaks Titanium Alcohol Stove Pot Stand | 1.2 | |||
| Titanium Long-handled spoon | 0.7 | |||
| SmartWater Bottles 1 LT (2) | 2.6 | |||
| 9.5 | 0.27 | |||
| FIRST AID / HYGIENE | ||||
| Sunscreen (repackaged in tiny btle.) | ||||
| Hand Sanitizer (repackaged in dropper btle.) | It’s been 20 years since I’ve had a case of the trotskies in the backcountry. I think a big reason is my diligent use of hand sanitizer. | |||
| Aquamira (repackaged in dropper btles.) | Purification method of choice since 2007. | |||
| Mini Toothbrush | ||||
| Toothpaste (mini tube) | ||||
| Dental Floss | Doubles as sewing thread | |||
| Antiseptic Wipes (2) | Clean cuts/wounds | |||
| Gauze | ||||
| Triple Antibiotic Cream (tiny tube) | ||||
| 3M Micropore Medical Tape | Breathable, paper tape / Adheres well. | |||
| Ibuprofen (6) | ||||
| Sewing Needle | One-armed blind people can sew better than I can. | |||
| Tenacious Tape, Mini Tube Super Glue (repairs) | To compensate for lack of sewing skills. | |||
| 4 | 0.11 | |||
| CLOTHES | ||||
| Rain Pants – Montbell Versalite | 3.2 | Very light, water-resistant, but not the most durable. Fine for on-trail hiking, care needed when heading off-trail/bushwhacking. | ||
| Thermal Underwear – Montbell Super Merino Middle Weight Tights | 6 | |||
| Rain Jacket – Montbell Torrent Flier | 6.5 | The newest incarnation of the Torrent Flier. A couple of ounces lighter than the older model. For off-trail, I prefer the heavier 3-Layer Montbell Storm Cruiser. | ||
| Insulation – Insulation – Montbell Chameece Inner Jacket (No longer made/Replaced by Montbell Chameece Jacket) | 8.8 | I’ve owned this fleece for the last four years / Ideal summer insulation layer for the Alps– not too heavy, performs well when damp, takes the edge off chilly mornings. | ||
| Insulation – Montbell 1000 Alpine Down Parka | 9.1 | Fantastic warmth-to-weight ratio. Upgrade over long-time favourite 3-season puffy, the Superior Down Parka. | ||
| Extra Socks – Darn Tough Hiker Micro Crew | 2.6 | |||
| Buff (Original Polyester) | 1.4 | Beanie, neck/face protection, condensation wipe, convenience store holdups if low on cash / I came late to the Buff party, but I’ve got to say I’m impressed. | ||
| Montbell Chameece Liner gloves | 0.9 | Almost four years of regular use and still going strong / Easily the best liner gloves I’ve used, and it’s not even close. | ||
| 38.5 | 1.1 | |||
| MISCELLANEOUS | ||||
| Phone – iPhone 11 | 7.1 | |||
| Otter Symmetry case for iPhone 11 (orange) | 1.3 | |||
| Camera – Sony RX100 3 + Neoprene camera case | 11.3 | After some years of only using my phone, I bit the photography bullet last year and upgraded for the Scotland/Norway trip. Happy with the results so far. | ||
| Stuff sacks – HMG Cuben Fiber (2) | 2.4 | |||
| Headlamp – Nitecore NU25 | 1.8 | Excellent rechargeable headlamp. Most of the time I tend to use the low red setting to preserve night vision. | ||
| Montbell Trail Wallet (orange model) | 0.5 | Love this little wallet. Use it both on trail and off. Upgrade from the plastic cardholder. | ||
| Swiss Army Classic | 0.7 | For a long time I really only used the tweezers and scissors, but in recent years I’ve carried more cheese and veggies on shorter hikes, meaning that I now use the knife as much, or more than the other two features. | ||
| Compass – Suunto M-3G Global Pro | 1.6 | Adjustable declination and globally balanced needle (more responsive than my old Suunto M-2). | ||
| Small pen | 0.3 | |||
| Deuce of Spades potty trowel | 0.6 | |||
| Map Bag – Quart Size Ziploc | 0.2 | Keeps maps clean, dry & organized. | ||
| Montbell Alpine Carbon Pole Cam Lock | 7.1 | Upgrade after many years of using the Fizans, due to the fact that I’ve had the twist-lock mechanism fail on me a couple of times in extreme conditions / Cam (flip) lock easier to handle, more secure, and worth the extra ounce and a half. | ||
| 35.5 | 1 | |||
| BASE WEIGHT | TOTAL | 11.1 lb | 5.1 kg | |
| ITEMS WORN | ||||
| Shorts – Patagonia Baggies 7″ | 6.7 | Hiking shorts of choice since 2014/15. 7″ are long enough that they can be used on trail, but still look respectable around town. See Review. | ||
| Base layer – Montbell Cool Hoodie | 6.6 | This was the first sun hoodie I’ve ever tried and I have to say I loved it. Light, airy, dries quickly, the kangaroo pouch was handy for snacks/phone/map, and when combined with the baseball cap, it provided great sun protection. | ||
| Hat – CDT Baseball Cap | 3.2 | |||
| Shoes – Brooks Cascadia 13 | 23.6 | I’ve worn every model of the Cascadias since the 3’s, which came out more than a decade ago. Since that time I’ve tried Altras, La Sportivas, and a couple of other different brands, but I always come back to the Cascadias. | ||
| Socks – REI Merino Wool liners | 1.6 | Still my favourite liner socks, though the current models aren’t as durable as the pre-2013 versions. | ||
| Dirty Girl Gaiters | 1.2 | Handy for keeping out dirt and mud. I’ve been using DG’s since 2007. | ||
| Timex Ironman Watch | 1.4 | Cheap, durable, light, multiple alarms | ||
| Sunglasses | 0.8 | Polarized lenses, 100% UV protection, wrap-around. | ||
| 45.1 | 1.28 | |||
| TOTAL WEIGHT | 14 lb | 6.3 kg | ||
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