Paris Walks: 14th & 15th Arrondissement (+ Petite Ceinture)

Salut from Paris! We’re Lena and Laurent, and today, we’re taking you on a short stroll through our neighborhood: the 14th and 15th Arrondissement of Paris.

📍 If you’re here for our favorite addresses and recommendations, you find them at the end of this article, together with the map of this itinerary.

We’re starting our walk today near the Metro Station Balard (Line 12). Where you’ll find the entrance to the Petite Ceinture that runs along the southern edge of the 15th Arrondissement. 

#1 The Petite Ceinture in the 15th Arrondissement

Read more about the Petite Ceinture here: La Petite Ceinture: Discover Paris’ Abandoned Railway (+ Insider Tips)

• Established in 1852, the Petite Ceinture was a crucial lifeline for Paris, bustling with trains carrying goods and passengers.
• Decline: The advent of the Parisian Metro in 1900 shifted the urban transit landscape, causing a gradual decline in the railway’s use.
• Transformation: By the 1980s, the line was mostly abandoned, with parts of it serving as tracks for the RER C. Since a few years, sections of the old railway belt are transformed into an urban park with lush walking paths.

Our Walking Experience

• From Industry to Nature: The stretch we’re exploring was active until the 1970s, mainly serving the Vaugirard Slaughterhouse and Citroën Factory.
• Revival as a Park: Abandoned for decades, this 1.5km section was reborn in 2013 as a public park. It’s now a sanctuary for over 220 plant and animal species, meticulously maintained by the City of Paris.

Practical Tips

• Navigating the Path: The path includes elevators at both ends, though they’re often out of service, so don’t count on them for accessibility.
• Opening Times: Usual park hours of Parisian Parks, that depend on the season. Roughly, the park closes when it’s getting dark and opens when it’s getting day.

After exiting the Petite Ceinture, walk through a hidden alley, with a massive at the end. The art piece was created by the Parisian street artist Da Cruz.

Tip: Keep an eye out for a small marker on the entrance of the park that shows you’re still on the historic track of the Petite Ceinture.

#2 Park George Brassens

Park Georges Brassens, located in the 15th arrondissement, offers a quiet retreat from the urban rush of Paris.

Once a slaughterhouse, this area has been transformed into a peaceful and very diverse green space. With little walkways, a river, a herb garden, several playgrounds and old structures, that are a nod to the parks past.

It’s a perfect spot for a leisurely walk, relaxing by the pond, or enjoying a quiet afternoon outdoors.

Vineyard Clos de Morillons

• Cultural Snapshot: The park hosts one of Paris’ few vineyards, the Clos de Morillons, which echoes the agricultural past of the area, now producing wine that’s auctions off for local charities.

Discoveries in the Park

• Architectural Relics: The park’s landscape is dotted with structures from its previous life as a slaughterhouse, including a clock tower and bull statues that add to the parks charm.
• Literary Corner: On weekends, the old market halls transform into a covered book market, a treasure trove for antique lovers and literary enthusiasts.
• Playgrounds & Ponds

#3 Lunch & Local Food

Rue Raymond Losserand, located between the Metro stations Pernety and Plaisance, is a local favorite for picking up delicious treats.

The street is home to excellent cheese shops, bakeries, and wine stores, along with several charming cafés where you can relax and enjoy the neighborhood vibe.

It’s a great spot to explore for anyone wanting to experience everyday Parisian life and sample some local flavors.

#4 Rue Thermophyles

Rue Thermophyles, located in the 14th arrondissement, is a quaint and quiet street that offers a slice of serene Parisian life. Known for its cobblestone path and floral decorations, it provides you with a pleasant escape from the city’s busier parts.

• Street Charm: Even though the famous wisteria was not in bloom when we were there and construction work was ongoing, , the street’s charm is undeniable, offering a peaceful walking experience.
• Artistic Touch: At the end of the street, you encounter an intriguing gate designed by French-Hungarian artist Alexandre Mezei in the 1950s.

#5 Petite Ceinture in the 14th Arrondissement

The Petite Ceinture in the 14th arrondissement presents a more untamed and adventurous side of this historic railway. As it weaves through the neighborhood, this stretch offers a wilder, more natural environment compared to its counterparts in other districts.

• Natural Sanctuary: Over 200 plant species and 70 animal species have been recorded in this area, it showcases a thriving ecosystem amidst the urban landscape.
• Historical Path: This section remains less developed, retaining the rugged charm that attracts urban explorers and nature enthusiasts alike.

Our best addresses:

As promised, here’s a list of our favorite stores and restaurants along the way of this itinerary.

Restaurants and Cafés:

• Brasserie Arthur & Juliette, 51 Rue des Morillons, 75015 Paris (in front of park Georges Brassens)
• Tang Gourmet, 56 Rue de Vouillé, 75015 Paris
• L’Entrepôt, 7 Rue Francis de Pressensé, 75014 Paris
• Jeroboam, 72 Rue Didot, 75014 Paris
• Brasserie Partage, 79 Rue Didot, 75014 Paris
• Ti Case Créole, 115 Rue Didot, 75014 Paris

Food Shops & Bakeries:

• Le Grenier à Pain Losserand, 93 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014 Paris (Bakery)
• Land & Monkeys, 85 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014 Paris (vegan Bakery)
• Mon Jardin Chocolaté, 28 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014 Paris (Chocolates)
• Bootletter, 82 Rue de l’Ouest, 75014 Paris (Beer)
• Fromagerie Beillevaire, 86 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014 Paris (Cheese)
• Vivres, 18 Rue Francis de Pressensé, 75014 Paris (Wine)

Voilà, hope you enjoyed this walking tour!

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