UPDATED JANUARY 2023
It just wouldn’t be Paris without the Métropolitan (or Métro), one of the most efficient and user-friendly subway systems in the world. Its 14 lines (plus two smaller bis lines) crisscross the city and the immediate suburbs daily from 5:45am-1am (2am on Saturdays), with connections to the RER and international train stations. Each line is designated by a number and its terminus points (ie Line 1: Château de Vincennes – La Défense). Most stations can be reached with one or two changes at the most. Maps are posted in Métro cars, on platforms (quais), and next to ticket windows. You can also ask for a free Métro map (un plan) from any ticket agent. You can also have a peek at the online map here (click on “metro” at the top blue navigation bar, then on a metro number above the map to see a specific line route).
Reminder: If you haven’t been to Paris since 2019, you’ll want to update your maps, since several lines have been extended (lines 4, 13, and 14) and you’ll need to know the new terminus station names.
Individual tickets cost €2.10 each (€2.50 from the bus driver). Tickets are valid throughout the RATP (Paris Transit Authority) network of Métro, bus, tram, Montmartre funicular, and RER lines within the city and immediate suburbs (zones 1-2). Beyond zone 2, RER fares are higher and require different tickets (ie airports, Versailles).
The paper tickets — which are getting harder to buy — infamously demagnetize if kept next to a smartphone or credit cards, and they’re also a huge waste of paper, so the RATP is transitioning to the Navigo Easy card that you can just load the tickets onto the card, then swipe and go. The card is €2 (good for 10 years) that can then be charged with as many tickets as you like (up to 20 individual tickets, or two “carnets”, as well as airport tickets, and one-day passes). The Easy Navigo cards don’t need a name and id photo (so you can give it to someone else when you’re finished with it), but can’t be used more than once for the same trip (ie you can’t have three people go through the turnstile with you). So each person in your group would need their own card. They can be purchased and loaded at any ticket window where there’s a human, and refilled at any of the ticket machines (or via the Bonjour RATP app with an NFC sensor on your smartphone, but this app doesn’t work on all smartphones, so take the time to test it).
You can save money by purchasing ten tickets at once, known as a “carnet” for €16.90. These are no longer available as paper tickets, so you’ll need the Navigo Easy card to purchase these (and for some reason they seem to only allow you to load two carnet per transaction). There’s also an unlimited 24-hour ticket is €8.45 within Paris, up to €20.10 if you want to use it to access the airports (the paper version is called Mobilis, and the one you charge onto your Navigo card is Navigo Jour; but they work the same).
There are unlimited travel passes for visitors called Paris Visite valid for 1 day (€13.55), or 2 (€22.05), 3 (€30.10) or 5 (€43.30) consecutive days, good anywhere in Paris (zones 1 to 3). Double the price for passes that include Paris and the Île-de-France region (all zones, including airport connections, Orlyval, Disneyland Paris and Château de Versailles). This is good if you don’t want to stress about how many tickets you have left and plan on taking lots of short trips. There are also a bunch of discounts for other tourist stuff with your pass, like river cruises and cabaret shows (but honestly most people pre-purchase that stuff anyway). The downside is that it’s only available as a paper ticket which can demagnetize (be sure to keep the receipt in case you need to exchange it). You need to write your name and the date you start using it on the ticket to show if you’re stopped by security.
There are also unlimited weekly, monthly and annual passes meant for Parisians and commuters from the region. The weekly pass is good Monday-Sunday (€30) and the monthly pass starts on the first of the month (€84.10), so up to you if it seems logical to use these on your trip if it starts mid-week or mid-month. You’ll need a French bank account to be able to get an annual pass (€925.10/year), as they take the payments automatically each month, but it can be started at any moment.
If you’re a student or worker living in Paris, there are other passes specifically adapted for you, check out the RATP website.
If you’ve got a paper ticket, stick it in the slot and take it when it pops out the other side before moving through the turnstile. You’ll need to keep this until you exit the metro as proof of payment, and you’ll need it to exit the RER by putting it through the turnstile again. If you have a plastic pass of any kind, you just wave it in front of the purple circle and you’ll hear a ding and see a green light to pass through the turnstile (it will also show you how many tickets you have left).
Within the Métro, a single ticket is good for one journey with unlimited transfers (correspondences) as long as you don’t exit. You can transfer between metros and RERs with the same ticket for up to 2 hours, and you can transfer between busses and trams with one ticket (for up to 90 minutes). But oddly, you can’t transfer between metro and busses, or between trams and metros (you need to use another ticket).
Reminder: Have your paper ticket or card on you at all times when traveling; you’ll need it to prove you’ve paid if the RATP officials do a random check. You’ll also need it to exit from RER stations.
All RATP tickets, carnets and passes are 50% off for kids 4-9. Kids under 4 ride for free (if you’re a Paris resident, check the rates because kids usually have free transport if you live here). Parents with bulky strollers (which are not recommended) can avoid the turnstiles by asking agents at the ticket window to open the side gate, if there is one. Be prepared for long tunnels and numerous stairs throughout the Métro and RER.
- General Rules & Etiquette
Smoking, eating and drinking on the Métro and RER is not allowed (although it’s mildly tolerated on the platform). Don’t put your feet or luggage on the seats. The fold-down seats shouldn’t be used when the car is crowded. Do not try and jump on at the last second, even if you see daredevil Parisians doing it.
It’s also not recommended to talk so loudly that everyone can hear your conversation. It’s considered rude in France, and even if you think they can’t understand you, most of them can (and so can all of the other native English speakers who are cringing in horror).
The safest place for anyone traveling alone at night is in the first car directly behind the driver. If you have any problems, use the yellow emergency call boxes found on every platform.
Beware of pickpockets in crowded cars, especially during the jostle of getting on or off. Some people will squeeze in right behind you at the ticket turnstiles to get in without paying; make sure they’re not going through your pockets at the same time!
- Access for those with Impaired Mobility
Only Line 14 is completely accessible today. The rest of the Métro/RER system is only partially accessible for people with reduced mobility. There are turnstiles, long halls with many stairs, and escalators and elevators that are frequently out of order. That means anyone carrying heavy luggage, pushing a stroller, in a wheelchair, or having a bad knee day should take the bus (which have ramps) or taxi.
