Last Updated on June 1, 2022 by Nellie Huang
This article has been updated to reflect the new changes in visa rules. Traveling to Saudi Arabia has never been easier. Here is what it’s like to travel Saudi Arabia as a woman.
Beneath my feet, the craggy sandstone cliff drops off to reveal a dizzying height. And below that, the vast plain sprawls endlessly into the horizon. From this vantage point, I can see a few camels resembling tiny lego pieces in the far distance.
It’s no wonder this is called the Edge of the World. Standing at the cliff edge, you really do get the sensation that you’re at the last frontier. Originally known as Jebel Fihrayn, the escarpment is a spectacular natural wonder with dramatic views that would impress even the most hardened travelers. Yet, there is not a single tourist in sight.
This is Saudi Arabia, a mysterious country that has closed its doors to the outside world for years. Few people in the world can get access to what’s known as one of the world’s most difficult countries to travel to — but things are about to change.
Sitting at the cliff edge, I can’t help but feel that I’m at the last frontier, both literally and metaphorically.
Solo female Travel in Saudi Arabia
Is it Possible to Travel Saudi Arabia?
I have come to Saudi Arabia on the new e-visa system, which the kingdom rolled out in the second half of 2018. It’s part of a bold plan to open up tourism in Saudi Arabia — beyond the millions of Muslims who make the annual hajj pilgrimage to Mecca. As a taster, the kingdom offered e-visas to tourists interested in attending the Formula-E car racing event, the first of its kind to be held in Saudi Arabia.
I wasn’t the least bit interested in the car racing — but the opportunity to get access into what is one of the world’s most closed-off countries was too tempting to pass. It was ridiculously easy to get the e-visa. I booked a Formula-E ticket on the Sharek website, paid US$270 (price included the visa) and received my e-visa within minutes.
The e-visa allows travelers (including women 25 and older) a single entry into Saudi Arabia and stay for 30 days. Even female travelers aged 25 and older will be able to travel independently on the e-visa, without the need for male companions.
Changes in Saudi Arabia
Changes are coming to Saudi Arabia. In fact, it’s on the brink of one of the biggest transformations in the country’s history. And I’m extremely lucky to be here to witness it.
Since Crown Prince Mohammad bin Salman came in power, he has announced that the kingdom will be adopting a form of “moderate, open Islam”.
For the first time in years, women are now permitted to drive and vote. The Saudi Council of Ministers has stripped the religious police of their power, who used to arrest people for not abiding by the rules. They have created a new Islamic center to review the fatwas, Hadith. The government has also just ended a 35-year ban on cinemas. In February 2017, the conservative country allowed female-only gyms and for women to attend sporting events.
According to TIME, Saudi Arabia says it expects to attract 100 million foreign and domestic visitors by 2030 and create 1 million new jobs in the tourism sector. Tourism is the government’s solution to diversify the country’s economy, which is currently completely dependent on oil.
New Visa Program for Travelers to Saudi Arabia
The new visa program offers e-visas to citizens of 49 countries, including the UK, US, Canada, and Australia. Check if you’re eligible here.
Travelers can apply for the e-visas on this website, which will deliver your visa by email in just a few minutes.
Saudi Arabia has also lifted some restrictions on women traveling in the ultraconservative Muslim kingdom, The new guidelines allow women to rent hotel rooms without a male guardian’s presence, and foreign men and women to share a room without proof of marriage.
Female tourists are also exempted from wearing the all-covering abaya robe, but will be required to dress “modestly”. (I dressed in an abaya throughout my stay in Saudi Arabia.) These are all great news for those traveling Saudi Arabia as a woman.
Why Travel Saudi Arabia?
I’d wanted to visit Saudi Arabia after watching Wadjda (one of the best travel movies I’ve seen), the first movie produced by a female Saudi Arabian filmmaker. In a country where cinemas are banned and women cannot drive or vote, writer- director Haifaa Al Mansour has broke many barriers with her film.
Part of Saudi Arabia’s appeal for me lies in how difficult it has always been to enter the kingdom. The birthplace and spiritual home of Islam, Saudi Arabia has been closed off to visitors for decades in a bid to protect the kingdom’s religious rules. For years, only a business visa that cost an arm and a leg can get you into this kingdom. Even then, it was mandatory to join a tour and female travelers were not allowed to travel on their own.
Now that Saudi Arabia is opening up to tourism, there has never been a better time to travel there. My trip there was such an eye-opening experience — it gave me a rare glimpse into a world that few foreigners have seen, one that momentarily felt entirely untainted by outside influence.
Yet, before my trip to Saudi Arabia, I was criticized by many friends for supporting a regime that has strict Islamic laws enforced, brutally murders law-offenders (case in point: Jamal Khashoggi) and waged a brutal war against Yemen.
To be clear, I believe that a country’s government and its people are two separate things. Traveling to a country doesn’t mean I’m supporting their government or agree with the politics of the country. If that is the case, I probably shouldn’t ever travel to the US, UK and many other places.
My Impressions of Saudi Arabia
As with the case for many countries I’ve been, Saudi Arabia turned out to be quite different from how it is often portrayed on the news media.
For one, I was overwhelmed by how vibrant the capital city of Riyadh was (weekends are an exception, when everything opens only at 4pm). Tall skyscrapers, sparkly new malls and neon-signed restaurants line Olaya Street, the main artery of the city. I spotted international brands everywhere — from Victoria’s Secret to Zara, McDonalds to Starbucks.
Every women in Saudi Arabia wore an abaya (a long-sleeved black robe), but I also noticed many had on Kim Kardashian-style makeup, immaculately polished nails, branded handbags and the trendiest sunglasses.
At a traditional mud-walled restaurant called Najd Village, our group of mixed unrelated men and women sat and ate together — which would have been outlawed a few years ago. At the iconic Kingdom Tower’s Skybridge (observation deck), men and women were also allowed to mingle freely, no questions asked.
Traveling Saudi Arabia as a Woman
I was surprised by how much freedom I enjoyed as a female traveler. I moved freely around the city in Ubers by myself and had no problems hanging out with my male travel mates.
I also chatted freely with both male and female Saudi Arabians and they were more than happy to socialize with us. I didn’t have any problems entering places because of my gender, though females have to use the family areas in public spaces.
I found myself adapting easily to wearing an abaya since everyone else was. A friend of mine also wore a head scarf over her hair since most women did. We covered up out of respect — neither the abaya nor the hijab are required by Saudi law.
Considering that tourism is very new to them, I was expecting quite a bit of curious stares from locals. But I was wrong! Saudi Arabians are used to seeing foreigners as over 30% of the population are foreign workers and expats. Saudis are also a global and well-traveled bunch, many of them having studied and lived abroad.
The Reality in Saudi Arabia
Mind you, there ARE still plenty of strict rules that govern the kingdom. For instance, gender segregation is still obvious in many places. Restaurants have designated entrances and sitting areas for men, and family areas for women.
Food courts and fast food restaurants too have separate lines for women and men. And Saudi women still aren’t allowed to travel independently without a male guardian (usually father or brother).
Do Saudi women feel like second-class citizens? Probably. But that doesn’t mean they’re weak and submissive. I met several Saudi women who were strong, confident, outspoken and intelligent. Many of them received good education and have their own thinking.
My Observations from Traveling in Saudi Arabia
What I learned is that Saudi Arabia is a culture of conservatism and modesty. The society here is modern and wealthy, but traditional and deeply rooted in their culture at the same time. Many women in Saudi Arabia cover up to protect their modesty — which has more to do with their culture/tradition than religion. This is a custom that predates Islam!
I also noticed that Saudi men are very respectful and civilized to women — not just to foreign women, but to women in general. In certain Muslim countries, men can be aggressive especially towards foreign women. I’ve had unpleasant encounters in Iran, Iraqi Kurdistan and Afghanistan where men were openly soliciting and I even got groped in crowded public places.
But Saudi Arabia was quite the opposite — men here are polite, respectful and civilized. They speak to women politely and treat them with respect. Again, I’m not saying that Saudi Arabians are not being oppressed by the strict rules of the royal decree.
What to See in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Because many Saudis speak English and are a friendly bunch, I met quite a few people and felt that I had a good sense of the country and their culture.
I came with the assumption that Riyadh wouldn’t have many interesting sights – but I was wrong. There were definitely enough to keep my four days busy and exciting. Most shops and restaurants close at prayer times (that’s five times a day) and many only open at 4pm, so I had to plan my day around it. It was surprisingly easy to get around Riyadh on Uber (even on my own, as a girl).
Masmak Fort
The first place I recommend checking out is the Masmak Fort (free entry), a clay and mud-brick fort located in the old quarters of Riyadh. It is immaculately restored, with lots of photos and info on display. This building played a major part in the kingdom’s history, as it was here that the recapture of Riyadh by the Saud family (who continues to rule Saudi Arabia today) took place. Right next to the fort is Deera Square, colloquially known as the Chop-Chop Square, where public beheadings used to take place.
Kingdom Tower
For sunset, head to the Sky Bridge at Kingdom Tower, an iconic building owned by the royal family. Extending 65 meters in length, the Sky Bridge is a steel structure weighing about 300 tons, overlooking the whole of Riyadh. The trip to the SkyBridge passes through two elevators, first elevator will take about 50 seconds to reach the height of 180 meter to the Transfer level, and second elevator will take less than 40 seconds to reach its final destination the Sky Bridge. Entry fee is 60 SAR per person.
At-Turaif Historical Site
During my visit, the At-Turaif historical site had just opened for an exclusive peek after years of restoration work (it will be opened to public shortly). The UNESCO World Heritage Site was the first capital of the Saudi Dynasty, founded in the 15th century. In the 18th and the early 19th century, its regional political and religious role increased, and the citadel of At-Turaif became the centre of the House of Saud. It was absolutely impressive and could easily rival other famous sites like the Alhambra in Spain.
Najd Village
For a traditional Saudi meal, head to the mud-walled restaurant, Najd Village. The traditional chicken kabsa (a rice dish) was delicious and I devoured it with beer (non-alcoholic of course!), sitting cross-legged on the cushioned floor. It’s the only traditional place in Riyadh but definitely worth a visit for a culinary experience.
Things to Do Beyond Riyadh
My short time in Riyadh got me really intrigued and I definitely hope to return to explore more. The country is massive, in fact it’s the biggest in the Middle East. Some parts of Saudi Arabia are off limits to foreign visitors (i.e. non-Muslims) — especially Mecca, the holy land of Muslims.
The most attractive tourism sight in Saudi Arabia is Mada’in Saleh – the Saudi version of Petra in Jordan. Like Petra, the city was hewn from solid rock by the Nabateans. Unlike Petra, it has very few visitors. Sadly, it was closed for restoration work during my visit, although I later found out that it is opened exclusively for the Winter at Tantora festival (which takes place on certain dates in 2019). Check here for details.
Saudi Arabia’s Red Sea coastline is also superb, with stunning beaches and crystal clear waters. The Kingdom plans to build an entire city there known as NEOM, an “independent economic zone with its own laws, taxes and regulations”. It’s said to include an international resort zone that will have a degree of greater tolerance of behavior.
The second biggest city in Saudi Arabia, Jeddah, is also worth a visit. In the winding, labyrinthine backstreets of the old quarter, known as the ‘Balad’, little has changed since the 1980s. The colorful street stalls and market as well as historical architecture remain. The city’s highlights include Souq al-Alawi, Al-Tayibat City Museum for International Civilisation, the Corniche, and Jeddah Tower – planned to be the world’s tallest building – still currently under construction.
Wikimedia CC by Richard Hargas
How to Dress in Saudi Arabia
Women should wear conservative, loose-fitting clothes. Even though it’s not necessary to wear an abaya (full length cloak) for foreign visitors anymore, I would recommend bringing one just in case.
I bought a simple black abaya with gold trimmings on Amazon before my trip. It would be a good way to fit in. Also bring a headscarf if you want to enter the mosques.
Men should not wear shorts in public. I would advise wearing long pants and long-sleeved shirts.
Travel to Saudi Arabia: Things to Know
How to Apply for the Saudi Arabia e-Visa
The new visa program offers e-visas to citizens of 49 countries, including the UK, US, Canada, and Australia. Check if you’re eligible here.
Travelers can apply for the e-visas on this website, which will deliver your visa by email in just a few minutes. You just need to print it out and present it at the airport on arrival.
The e-visa allows for single entry within a 30-day period. This applies to women of 25 and older, who are allowed to visit Saudi Arabia independently.
How to Get to Saudi Arabia
It is surprisingly easy to travel to Saudi Arabia once you’ve got your visa. Flights to Saudi Arabia are really affordable from other parts of Middle East and Europe. You can easily fly into Riyadh or Jeddah, the two biggest cities of Saudi Arabia. Most flights into Saudi Arabia will connect via Istanbul and Dubai.
Flights from Istanbul to Riyadh cost around US$500 return, while you can get flights from Dubai to Riyadh for as cheap as $275 return.
For those flying from Europe, flights from London to Riyadh cost around US$550 return. If you’re flying from the US, flights from New York to Riyadh are usually around US$1200 return with one stopover. Flights from Los Angeles to Riyadh cost around the same.
Search for Flights to Riyadh here!
Where to Stay in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Hotels in Riyadh are surprisingly affordable. You can get a pretty nice hotel room for less than $50/night. The best area to stay in Riyadh is along the main thoroughfare, Olaya Street. You’ll be able to flag down taxis easily and get to main sights.
Luxury: MENA Riyadh Hotel
This 4-star hotel is located in the heart of Riyadh’s Olaya area, and it’s an excellent business hotel with some traditional Arabian flair. My friend who stayed there raved about the excellent restaurant and breakfast spread. Check the room rates here.
Midrange: Hyatt Buyutat
I stayed at this simple, budget hotel just a block behind Olaya Street. It’s got a great location and comfortable rooms, though don’t expect this to be an original Hyatt. Check the room rates here. The original Hyatt is Hyatt Regency Riyadh Olaya.
Budget: OYO 150 Al Hamra Palace Al Aswaq
For those on a tight budget, you can book a simple room at this motel for just $20+/night. You’ll still get WiFi and air-conditioning in the room, plus restaurants right below you. Check the room rates.
Where in Saudi Arabia is Safe to Travel?
Travel warnings remain in place from several governments following terror-related incidents in Saudi Arabia. The US State Department urges citizens to “carefully consider the risks of travel to Saudi Arabia” due to threats from terrorist groups or missile attacks by rebel forces in neighboring Yemen.
Avoid travel to these areas:
- Within 50 miles of the Saudi-Yemen border, including the cities of Jizan and Najran
- Qatif in the Eastern province and its suburbs, including Awamiyah
- Hofuf and its suburbs in the al Hasa governorate
Rules of Conduct in Saudi Arabia
Saudi Arabia has very strict Islamic rules and I’d advise you to follow them no matter what. The Islamic laws are strictly enforced, although these days the religious police no longer have the power to arrest people who are not following the rules.
The public practice of any form of religion other than Islam is illegal; as is an intention to convert others. However, the Saudi authorities accept the private practice of religions other than Islam, and you can bring a Bible into the country as long as it is for your personal use.
The new guidelines allow women to rent hotel rooms without a male guardian’s presence, and foreign men and women to share a room without proof of marriage. That said, avoid holding hands with your partner if you’re traveling with one and never show public displays of affection.
Alcohol & Sexual Acts in Saudi Arabia
Penalties for the possession of, or trade in alcohol are severe. Both result in prison sentences. Do not arrive in Saudi Arabia under the influence of alcohol. Importing pork products is forbidden.
During Ramadan, it is forbidden to eat, drink or smoke in public during daylight hours. The possession of pornographic material, or of illustrations of scantily dressed people, especially women, is prohibited.
Homosexual acts and extra-marital sexual relations, including adultery, are illegal and can be subject to severe penalties. It’s also illegal to be transgender. Transgender people traveling to Saudi Arabia are likely to face significant difficulties and risks if this is discovered by the authorities.
There are few places left that can be said to represent the last frontier of tourism – Saudi Arabia is one of them.
I hope this guide will prepare you for your trip to Saudi Arabia. Keep an open mind and bring your sense of adventure, and I’m sure Saudi Arabia will enthrall you.
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